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Author Topic: How to fit facelift lights on pre-facelift  (Read 4763 times)
shakman87
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« on: March 03, 2008, 01:45:42 AM »

this may need to be a sticky admins!!!

this topic has come up a lot, so i've taken the liberty of getting the info from the type r forum and posting it on here.

"Before I start, i'm affraid I don't have any really detailed photo's of the nitty gritty bits, so I may have to cross-reference other threads for specific jobs, like removing the front bumper etc. Most of the actual taking apart and putting back together is pretty obvious though, and if you're the type that isn't mechanically or electrically minded and struggles with removing a few nuts and bolts, i'd probably recommend you don't try this conversion

So - Start off by removing your front bumper. (unfortunatelty the guide I used first time I did it now seems to have disappeared forever so maybe someone else provide a link if they know of one)

Then remove the old headlights, its fairly obvious where all the bolts are which hold these in.

I have a list of part numbers and prices of bits which I used for the conversion, they are as follows.

All prices are EXCLUSIVE of VAT

1 x 33101-S5T-E62 - Right hand headlight unit - £80.37 ea
1 x 33151-S5T-E62 - Left hand headlight unit - £80.37 ea
2 x 33115-S84-A11 - HB3 main Beam bulb - £4.02 ea
2 x 33126-S0A-003 - Cover Rubber - £8.44 ea
2 x 33126-S6A-J61 - Cover Rubber - £6.60 ea
2 x 33303-SAA-003 - Indicator bulb holders - £5.45 ea
2 x 33303-S2R-003 - Indicator Orange bulbs - £1.18 ea
2 x 33305-S5A-003 - Side-light bulb holders - £4.85 ea
2 x 33116-SD4-961 - Headlight bulb Holders - (Optional) - £7.49 ea

So thats everything from Honda - which comes to a grand total of £236.80 -

(£278.24 inc VAT)

The reason I say the last bulb holders are optional is because some people reckon you need to buy them and modify them to hold the HID bulbs in, personally I don't think its necessary, I never used them on mine and they are held in fine just by slightly bending the metal clips.
so you can potentially lose about £20 off that bill. Obviously if you're not going for HID's you need them and some H1 bulbs. (34901-SZ3-000 £5.64 ea)

Fit all the bulbs and seals into the light units (If you are using HID then you will need to bend the metal clips slightly to hold in the HID bulb units, but this will all become apparent when looking at it. If you're not satisfied with bending the clips, you can follow the guide for fitting HID's to a Facelift found here)

Now for the wiring, when you offer the new lights up you will notice straight off that the plugs for the indicators are different, so far as I know you can't buy new ones from honda seperately (without the loom!) so I went to a scrapyard and found some suitable ones from another vehicle (just take the bulb holder down with you and have a root round) Same with the plugs for the new main beam (HB3) bulbs, you will need to be a little creative here when sourcing these parts.

The Side lights plug straight on, as do the headlight adjustment motors, but helpfully the plugs for these are part of the same loom, so because the adjustment motors are in a different position on the facelift lights they don't reach! Easiest thing to do here is to cut the two wires for the sidelight plug and extend them by approx 8 inches so they reach.

Once you've found some suitable indicator plugs - cut off the originals and splice on the new ones. (I personally prefer to solder and heat-shrink all the wires I cut and rejoin, but its up to you, you can use connectors if you don't have a soldering iron.)

Next up, you need to modify the original car headlight wiring, because we're changing from an H4 Hi/Lo bulb for both headlights and main beam, to seperate bulbs. You have to do this otherwise when you go to full beam the projectors will go out, which is not only rubbish for driving with, but also an MOT failure.

You need a standard 4 pin switching relay, a couple of reels of 8amp cable, an inline fuse (or, as I have done, a relay with integrated fuse) and a few various spade connectors. All available from halfords.

I'll assume we're using HID's here, if you're not the wiring is the same, but instead of connecting the wires to the HID ballasts, you'll simply be connecting them straight to the H1 headlight bulbs.

Mount the Ballasts on the inner wings, negative side of both ballasts goes to a suitable earthing point (somewhere on the body or engine which is not painted) Obviously it goes without saying to make sure you keep all wiring away from rotating pulleys and hot bits of the engine...

On the original wiring plug you've got 3 wires, one of them will be live when you switch the headlights on, the other two are switchable earths. One of them will be an earth when your in headlight position, one of them will be an earth when you're in main beam position. You need to identify which is which with a multimeter - I can't remember what the colour codes are off hand. but I believe they are discussed in Mr Bilko's thread here

Once you've done that, the wire which is an Earth when you're on headlights is not needed (as these will now be permanently earthed) so you can tape it up and forget it. On the passenger side, find a suitable place to mount the relay.

You wire up pin 30 of the relay to a permanent feed from the battery (Via an inline fuse holder if you don't have a fused relay) and pin 87 to one side of your mainbeam bulb. On pin 85 you wire in the live feed from the cars original wiring plug and also piggy back this off the positive side of your HID ballast. Pin 86 goes to an earth. Terminal 87 goes to one side of your main beam bulb the other side of the main beam bulb goes to the switchable main beam earth from the original car loom.

The other side is only ever so slightly different - identify which wire is which again from the cars original plug, wire in the live to the positive side of your HID ballast (the other side goes to a permanent earth as above) the switchable main beam earth goes to one side of the HB3 main beam bulb, and for the other side of the main beam you bridge a wire across from Pin 87 on the relay."




Omni (2007) added this just in case (those type-r boys can be a bit fussy)

http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=140796 - posted by Omni on monday 25th june 2007 2.38pm.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2008, 04:52:35 PM by Halfloaf » Logged

2005 Civic EP2 NHB - Spoon N1 - JPerformance Manifold - K&N Panel Filter - J's Racing Front Upper Strut Bar - BuddyClub Racing Spec Condenser - Red Recaro's - White Penta's - Alpine CDA 9857R - Alpine Type R 12 Sub - Rainbow/Alpine Speakers - Kenwood Amps
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« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2008, 10:48:53 AM »

Good post...

I PM'd some guy on typer forum about this, as he done it to his EP3 - selling it for about 8k....looks hot Cool with the face lift lights.

Seems like a fair bit of work. But definitely worth the results. As this would be the only reason why I would go for the face lift model Smiley

I assume I could use my H4 HID bulb, just couldn't use the hi-beam on it; that would obviously be a separate bulb and connection - if Im wrong let me know, I plan to do this soon Cheesy:D

Good work!
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shakman87
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« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2008, 03:40:01 PM »

yeah dude, ur right - you wouldn't get full beam. but i suppose HIDs are bright enough and if you get the Bi-Xenon ones they're even brighter. (brighter than X5's i've been told). but at about £200 a kit you should expect amzing results. remember 6000k is the favourite. nice bright light that keeps the blue tint. (btw, Bi-Xenons are are available for H4 bulbs, so go for it - spend that little bit more and u wont have to worry about the bulbs till they go out)

http://www.hids4u.co.uk/store/product.php?productid=71&cat=15&page=1 - pre-facelift

http://www.hids4u.co.uk/store/product.php?productid=47&cat=13&page=1 - facelift

i'm thinking of heading down the HID route too. gonna look for a good kit and prob do the job myself as it doesn't seem too bad. prob get a buddy to help so the job can be done twice as fast.
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shakman87
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« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2008, 03:41:08 PM »

i reckon if we could get enough people i could prob sort out a group buy. that way we'd prob get some discount too Smiley
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« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2008, 04:33:49 PM »

already got HIDs

Cheesy Tongue I think I paid £110 for my h4 set last year, hi-beam is a crappy crappy sun flower yellow in comparison.

I thought bi-xenon was just about it producing a hi beam in the same bulb :-/ doh!

6000k is the perfect colour, nice white diamond with a subtle blue. If I had projector lights I would go with 5000k or even 4300k.  After a while the colour temp shifts up, so you may find a 6k bulb after a good few months of usage will read as 6.5k. From what I've read anyway.

I am liking the new higher power kits, I always want more.
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shakman87
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« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2008, 06:55:10 PM »

lol, i kno what u mean mate. i saw the 35w kit for £100 then saw the 55w kit for £150. 35w kit seems tempting, but i would like to have the 55w kit as i think the lights would be brighter. i'm defo gonna go for it once student loan comes in.

have u fitted yours yet?
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2005 Civic EP2 NHB - Spoon N1 - JPerformance Manifold - K&N Panel Filter - J's Racing Front Upper Strut Bar - BuddyClub Racing Spec Condenser - Red Recaro's - White Penta's - Alpine CDA 9857R - Alpine Type R 12 Sub - Rainbow/Alpine Speakers - Kenwood Amps
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« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2008, 10:21:54 PM »

yeah fitted soon as I got them.

I don't remember seeing a higher watt unit :-/

Regardless they are both decent bits of kit that will be better then any type of halogen. I had to manually align the head lamps due to getting flashed a few times.

If you get them, let me know how you get on
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« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2011, 06:43:08 AM »

I agree with you.
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« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2012, 09:41:39 AM »

Though I am new to these forums but still I found these very informative and interesting.  I will surely join you with some study way back my place.


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