danster
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« on: July 25, 2008, 10:33:39 PM » |
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Removed due to selling car
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« Last Edit: December 16, 2008, 10:58:13 AM by danster »
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auto_ed
Fresh Blood

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« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2008, 07:30:11 AM » |
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The GF has spoken so you better not do anymore tuning....well at least for a while
nah i am sorry to hear about the problems your having.
i was going to go down the tuning route but now i think i'll stick with air filter, exhaust and a remap and that'll be me done.
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civicsport
Senior

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« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2008, 11:31:01 PM » |
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my car stalled the once after it was remaped then it was ok.
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EP2_Vtec
Junior

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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2008, 11:43:07 PM » |
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Hi Dan,
Sorry to hear abt the promblems with the car. I dont understand why you didn't just slam a K20 under the bonnet.
hope all goes well
Sammy
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EP2
Senior

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« Reply #4 on: July 27, 2008, 01:21:47 AM » |
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All that money for 133bhp, bet youre gutted mate?
ps, Take angel works to court?
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img]http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i35/d34n666/ep2-white.png[/img]
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civicsport
Senior

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« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2008, 10:42:02 AM » |
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sorry to hear its loosing power mate. do you know what gear the remap was done? would get a second opinion if i was u, try millway in andover they are very good. if all else fails bolt a turbo on it!
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sam_sport53
Senior

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« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2008, 05:24:03 PM » |
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Dan, if the problem is a low idle there is an idle throttle adjustment screw on the back of the throttle body. you'll see it - all it does is open the throttle a bit more as you tighten it. looks like a small grub screw and is in contact with the thing that holds the throttle cable and spins round as you pull the throttle cable itself. hope that makes sense?! try adjusting that. idle for MOT has to be between 500 and 1500rpm. when mine's warm it'll idle at 750rpm i think
Sam
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N/A all the way...
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Magnificent_one
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« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2008, 07:59:40 PM » |
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damn, sorry to hear that dan:s but it doesn't realy make sense does it  You have less than the startet working on it :s
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linepulse
Senior

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I'm getting no where fast...
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« Reply #8 on: July 28, 2008, 12:15:54 PM » |
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exactly....
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nhb ep2 // exedy stage 1 clutch & 9lb racing flywheel // hid 6k // light smoke tints all round // bmc cda + cai to front grill // ebc front disc & pads
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sam_sport53
Senior

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« Reply #9 on: July 28, 2008, 03:43:50 PM » |
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see my Pm dan. if no good, let me know and i'll sort out something else!
sam
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N/A all the way...
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sam_sport53
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« Reply #10 on: July 28, 2008, 05:32:32 PM » |
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the more i think about it the more i think at least half the problem is down to your mapping. if they haven't made sure the idle is good they surely can't have done a great job...
Sam
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N/A all the way...
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sam_sport53
Senior

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« Reply #11 on: July 28, 2008, 05:46:15 PM » |
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 Hopefully this helps Dan. the purple arrow shows on a similar throttle body where the idle adjustment screw is. you'll find it tucked at the back of our throttle body. once you find it you'll see how it works. Sam
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N/A all the way...
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angel-works.co.uk
Just Started
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« Reply #12 on: July 28, 2008, 06:29:48 PM » |
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Hello All,
I know none of you are well versed in the intricacies of tuning and analysing results, so I do not expect anybody to pickup on the very large and obvious misrepresentation of results, afterall. Something along the lines of comparing apples and oranges.
BHP, Torque and RPM all have a direct relationship to eachother, and mathmatically you can quickly and simply work out either torque or bhp so long as you have rpm and bhp/torque respectively. BHP is nothing but a numerical representation of 'work done', and that is 33,000 lb. ft/min. Torque is the actual force measured by a rolling road, and it calculates bhp from the data it gatheres and any correction you decide is worth taking into account.
BHP = (RPM x Torque)/5252 Torque = (BHP x 5252)/RPM
Figures need to be in BHP and lb. ft
If anybody cared to look carefully at the graph they would quickly see that mathmatically the numbers do not add up. The first sign of inconsistency is the point where the bhp and torque lines cross over, which on the first run (blue lines) cross over at 5252rpm as they should do. This shows us straight away that they are using the same axis for both bhp and torque, which is this case both are using the BHP axis. The 5th run (red lines) do not cross over at the same point so they must be using differing scales, namely the left side for BHP and right side for torque, and each axis has a differing scale, which is practically pointless for comparison at a glance. This is why the 'modified' power and torque graph look so substantially poorer.
The next problem once you look deeper and break out the calculator or spreadsheet, is that the bhp calculations do not come out correct. I have taken the liberty of calculating the bhp from the raw torque figures and laying them out in quick graph to allow easy comparison of each run.
http: //i13. photobucket. com/albums/a300/BenRAWT/DanW. jpg (you'll have to peice the pics address together as i have no idea why this forum doesnt like me putting up pics)
As you can see, and read from the numerical data at the bottom, all is not quite as it seems. I'll leave you all to have a look for yourself though.
I cannot comment if the graph was intentionally setup this way or not, but either way, its a very very strange way to present data.
Also I cannot comment on the mapping, if VTEC point was altered (ideally a run on and off vtec should be done and overlayed to see where the change over point should be for the smoothest torque curve), and idle quality should be affected as you've added substantially wilder cams, and any speed density management system doesnt like large overlap periods and pulsing MAP sensor values at low rpm.
Adjusting the throttle stop screw is counter productive as the idle control valve will just open proportionally less to keep idle speed at the same value, you need to change the base idle speed in the ECU.
I also think from the trend of the graph, if peak RPM was extended then more power is probably to be had as the power line is not plateauing yet. This type of cam coupled with the style of the inlet manifold is all a bit counterproductive and i cannot see this engine producing a high bhp/ltr output in its near stock form. 100bhp/ltr isnt as easy to achieve as you all might think, especially when the base unit is designed with economy and low/mid rpm torque in mind.
I hope this helps explain things a bit better.
Feel free to do the same as i have and calculate a few random bhp value from the torque graph to see how it all works out and if the original graph is correct.
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« Last Edit: July 28, 2008, 06:39:29 PM by angel-works.co.uk »
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civicsport
Senior

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« Reply #13 on: July 28, 2008, 07:03:43 PM » |
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now you said that angel-works, i cracked out my dyno sheet and it don't cross over like in dans dyno sheet. i did suggest that he went to millway coach works in andover where i got my dastek fitted and mapped, they are very clued up on chipping our cars.
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angel-works.co.uk
Just Started
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« Reply #14 on: July 28, 2008, 07:14:25 PM » |
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Hi
My Name is Ben by the way.
I would also suggest getting another power run somewhere and actually having a look at both ignition maps to see how they are different as each torque curve is fairly different with the new VE curve the engine will have.
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