New car stereo for my honda

[Xigdis]

Well,

Will take a whill before all the stuff i have buy.   But this is the list for the new carstereo set. 

Radio:
Pioneer DEH-P7100BT (Bluetooth) (Headunit)

Mainway speakers:
Pioneer GM-6300F (Amplifier for the front and Backseat)
Pioneer TS-E170Ci (Frontdoor Panel Speakers)
Pioneer TS-E1702is (Backseat Panel Speakers)

Subwoofer: (Still thinking about it is alot of money)
2x Pioneer TS-W5102SPL
2x Pioneer PRS-D2000SPL

Hope you review my list.   Because still new in this world my first car so.  .  .   need to be the best of the best. 

Regard,

X

[ma1deN]

That sounds pretty nice, i got that headunit in my car atm.. but im selling it with the car soo i can upgrade to something else!!
going to have lots of fun putting all that together

[smdawg]

are you using 4 or 8 gauge for your wiring?i would suggest 4 gauge, i would also suggest gettin 6x9's on the parcel shelf instead of the rear panel speakers, or better yet both! reason being that much bass is going to drown out the door speakers even if they are amplified, the power rating on 6x9s are way higher then door size speakers, i mean i love my bass but i also like to hear the vocals, clarity is key!

 ave a look at these
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/5650.html rated 160w RMS where as your door speakers are 35w RMS

i have the older gen vibe SEK69 , these are powered through an alpine mrp-f240 which sound exquisite  and an mrp-m350 powering an infinity sub.

also remember to settle all the speakers in, by which i mean dont crank it up fully for at least 30-40hours of play time, this will allow the voice coils to flex and adjust, if you dont do this it could destroy your speakers!

im also thinking you will not have enough space in your boot to fit 3 amps let alone the 2 pioneers you want. dont screw them onto the sub enclosure either amps are not designed to be fixed there, esp with that power rating.

[m100rso]

if you have subs in the boot don't put 6x9's in the shelf, firstly they look terrible secondly the air travel from the boot will either blow them up or make them distort,
in my opinion humble as it may be you should replace the front and rear door speakers with better components preferably with a separate positionable tweeter, this is what i have done anfd the sound in pretty damn great if im honest

[smdawg]

if you have subs in the boot don't put 6x9's in the shelf, firstly they look terrible secondly the air travel from the boot will either blow them up or make them distort,
in my opinion humble as it may be you should replace the front and rear door speakers with better components preferably with a separate positionable tweeter, this is what i have done anfd the sound in pretty damn great if im honest

which is why people build stealth shelfs, as for the distortion you can build in a shield under the 6x9 from vacuum formed 5mm plastic which is what i have done. no distortion what so ever, i have the rear door speakers amped and sound no way as good as the 6x9s, just my experience, everyone to their own!

[Matt_Coleman]

I had a 1500W sub in my first car (Small, Pug 206 3 door), and I also had 450W 6x9s on the standard parcel shelf. . .  I played a mixture of mainly r&b, drum and bass, dubstep (extremely basey), electro, trance - all of which produce their fair share of bass, and my sound quality was never hindered from the sub. . .

It really depends what you are trying to achieve from uprating speakers etc. . .  Do you want really loud and really bassy or do you want an improvement on clairty and overall sound? In my first car I wanted loud and bass and had a plush alpine cde-103bt headunit with kenwood 6x9s and high performance door speakers. . .

p. s i am aware that this post was nearly a year ago but I just came across it. . .  What did you go for in the end??